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Author Archives: Pankaj Adhikari

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Embracing the unique eco-system of Sunderbans, not merely tiger sighting

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Travel-hungry Bengali tourists coming back from Sunderbans face just one question: “Baagh dekhechhen? (Have you seen a tiger?).

It’s ridiculous and a fatuous question. Few tourists embark on a trip to the Sunderbans with a different mindset. The beauty and grandeur of this mangrove forest lie in its unique, vast eco-system. Unfortunately, tourists head toward the Sunderbans in droves, especially during in December-January (peak season) months just to witness what is known across the world as the Royal Bengal Tiger, one of the most powerful Big Cats in the world both in terms of physical strength and hunting prowess.

MB Bhraman Sathi: A wonderful experience

On average, a Bengal tiger weighs between 90 and 225kg, with males being large and heavier than females. The strength of a Bengal tiger can be gauged by its powerful jaws, sharp teeth and muscular body.

We (myself, my son Jishu, my childhood buddy Raju and his wife) decided to take the trip entirely from a different perspective. And At the end of the trip (two nights three days) organized by Travels Destination Sunderban, Canning, we were mighty pleased and had witnessed the unique bio-diversity of the Sunderbans: a maze of tidal rivers, creeks and islands, unparalleled bio-diversity, varied, diverse and abundant bird life and a mesmerizing landscape of dense forests, intricate root systems and the rhythmic pulse of tides — all inextricably linked with resilient local rural culture. It harbors over 450 species of fauna (including salt-water crocodiles, dolphins and turtles) and 26 mangrove species acting as a crucial, resilient natural coastal shield.

Sajnekhali wildlife sanctuary: One of the most popular watchtowers

Well, to understand the Sunderbans’ diverse eco-system, one should visit at least six to seven times. We embarked on the trip from Canning railway station at 9.15am from where we were transferred to Sonakhali (about 18kms) by an auto.

We got off the vehicle and boarded MB Bhramon sathi (that’s the name of our motor boat) anchored on the river Hegel. Sujoy and Shuvo and Babusona (the tour operator staff) warmly greeted us on the boat. We then kept our baggage in the lower deck and promptly went upstairs to take our seats. The upper deck was neatly arranged with chairs and later with tables for breakfast and lunch. Our first stop was Sajnekhali Wildlife Sanctuary.

Kalu Sardar: The motor boat pilot who recounted terrifying tales

As we stood on the upper deck, the January-end crisp cold air soothed our souls. Refreshing touch of wind and whisper of cool air made my day. Soon we’re given breakfast (luchi, aloor dom and misti followed by tea). All items were very well-cooked and we enjoyed them thoroughly. I decided to talk to the pilot (locally known as sareng) of the boat to get to know the specific routes the boat will take and the places they’d take us to.

A breathtaking view from the watchtower

Kalu Sardar, the 40-year-old pilot, an ever smiling and amiable guy, hugely impressed me as he kept narrating spine-chilling anecdotes and unbelievable incidents during 22 years of his cruising experience across the creeks and rivers of the Sunderbans. “I even saw an encounter of a crocodile with a Royal Bengal Tiger,” Sardar recalled. “The battle between the two ended up with the tiger receiving serious injuries and later dying before it was taken by the Forest Department guys to the hospital.”

“I saw a tiger only last month at Bonbibi Bharani, a narrow scenic creek in the mangrove forest,” Sardar reminisced. He also told during the Aila how one old woman, her 12-year-old grand-daughter and a Royal Bengal Tiger spent a night together.

I shuddered in disbelief!!

We visited Jharkhali Wild Animal Park where two tigers, two crocodiles and two peacocks are kept. Here we saw a Tiger Rescue Centre. As we stepped into the Park, we saw a number of signboards displaying pictures of different kinds of birds found there. A big board displays pictures of official birds of all states and Union Territories of India. Here I came to know that official bird of West Bengal is white-breasted kingfisher. I felt ashamed of my own ignorance!

Magnificent mangrove

Another board displays pictures of different migratory water birds in the Sunderbans. We also saw a huge enclosure where an eagle was kept. Another signboard displays pictures of different types of crabs and mollusk of the Sunderbans.

As the sun was setting on the horizon, Sardar took us to Pakhiraloy, where we had to get off to spend the night at a resort called Aponjon. Evening snack and dinner were cooked at the motor boat and served at the hotel. The tour operator’s cooks (the brother duo) were terrific. All the dishes made on the boat were delectable, I won’t forget especially Golda chingrir malai curry, doi kaatla,  betki paturi and Amudi fish fry.

Brother duo: A culinary triumph

What pained me during my visit was the unimaginable hardship and tough life the Sunderban people have to undergo especially during natural calamities. Remember the Nature’s fury and massive devastation wreaked by cyclone Aila (May 25, 2009) and tropical cyclonic storm Amphan (May 21, 2020)?

The Sunderbans mangroves acted as a natural, protective bio-shield during Cyclones Aila, Bulbul and Amphan significantly reducing wind speed by about 20kmph and breaking storm surges. The mangroves in Sunderbans region absorbed the Nature’s fury and saved West Bengal and Bangladesh. But in the process, they were badly damaged. The world’s largest mangroves impeded the wind proving yet again the importance of mangroves in safeguarding coasts from storms that are increasingly more frequent and more severe due to climate change.

All tourists landed in the Sunderbans hoping just to see tiger, but who bothers about the perennial poverty and hardship of the folks there!” I thought to myself. I was shocked to see the dismal and wretched road that leads to Loknath Temple (at Doner Mukh). When I asked a local woman who was selling Gobindobhog rice and moog dal (produced locally) how long they are subjected to such ordeal, her reply was: “Sir, for the past almost 20 years, come rain or shine, we have been seeing this appalling road condition. During rainy season things get worse. No one bothers!” her disappointment was writ large on her face. “Every day we risk our lives ambling across this poorly built brick-laid road,” she rued.

One boat staff said: “Following Cyclone Aila and Amphan huge number of tarpaulins were stacked in a college for distribution among the cyclone-hit people. Only a few, who are close to Gram Panchyat Pradhan, got them and later those tarpaulins were sold in the market.”

Dobanki Camp: A canopy walk

Finally, we were taken to Dobanki watch tower for a canopy walk (about half a km long and at a height of about 20 feet from the ground. It resembles a flyover with a 12-ft high side fencing grill and strong net) in the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve.

As I was getting down from the boat at Sonakhali, William Blake’s famous poem, The Tyger crossed my mind where the poet marveled at the tiger’s fierce beauty.

“Tyger tyger, burning bright,

In the forests of the night;

What immortal hand or eye,

Could frame thy fearful symmetry?..”

Bengalis’ deeply ingrained wanderlust drives them to the Sunderbans. True. But, they should remember that they must visit this forest, a Unesco World Heritage site, and embrace the unique eco-system to appreciate and cherish the marvelous bio-diversity and natural wonder of the Sunderbans.

Jharkhali Wild Animal Park: One and only mangrove zoo

 


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Trump’s tariffs trigger a shift toward multipolar world

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US President Donald Trump’s unilateral imposition of a series of sweeping new tariffs on August 7 have triggered a trade war and changed the world order with India, Russia pivoting toward China. The recent SCO summit in Tianjin marked a watershed in the history of geopolitics since the WWII. The unipolar world looks unsustainable now, looking at the complexity and diversity of emerging geopolitical realities. Multi-polarity is the new world order with China, India and Russia taking the lead and heralding the Asian century. The SCO 2025 played a critical role in forging this convergence where economic interests override ideology.

Robust economic ties among the partnering countries will enable them to exercise resilience against the US tariffs shock. The establishment of SCO Development Bank to accentuate multilateral projects was a major step in this direction.

According to World Economic Outlook Report released by the IMF in April, the combined GDP of the BRICS member countries is projected to exceed the global average in 2025. The data predicts that this Group will reach 3.4% in GDP, while the global average will reach just 2.8%. In 2024, BRICS collectively reached 4% GDP growth, while the worldwide growth stood at 3.3%.

The new axis formation, as visualized through the SCO 2025, will accentuate competition. This competition may create conflict in the beginning, but it will settle down in the long run and force the US to be more accommodating.

The ivory tower of unchallengeable eminence is set to get the reality bite soon.

‘Imperfect Presidents’

Historian Jim Cullen’s Imperfect Presidents in which he had examined key missteps of the US Presidents and taken 10 Presidents down from their pedestals is worth reading again. (Well, he had also explained how those Presidents had transcended their foibles during their presidency). Cullen’s insights were timely and hugely entertaining.

The current US President is a weird folk who only keeps making bizarre and suicidal decisions and no one, in their wildest imaginations, believes Trump would ever transcend his follies and foibles. Also, had Cullen decided to write a similar book now, Trump surely wouldn’t have found his name in the book.

Some of the controversial historical incidents examined by Cullen in Imperfect Presidents, include Abraham Lincoln smearing a preacher and rediscovering his religious vision by emancipating the slaves; Lyndon Johnson’s electoral fraud in his 1948 Senate race and his role in the signing of the Voting Rights Act and Ronald Reagan’s subversion of the Constitution in the Iran-Contra affair and later affirmation of world peace in helping bring about the end of the Cold War.

 

 

 

 

 

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Stop killing journalists, Mr Netanyahu

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Israel’s constant targeting of journalists and Gaza offensive to silence truth continued as it bombed the main hospital in southern Gaza on August 25 again killing at least 20 people, including five journalists.

Earlier this month, the Israeli airstrike on a tent used by media near Al-Shifa hospital in Gaza City had killed five Al-Jazeera staff and two freelancers which had been the single deadliest attack since the Israel-Gaza war began in 1992.

The “targeted assassination” was “yet another blatant and premeditated attack on press freedom”, said the Committee to Protect Journalists (CPJ).

Meanwhile, UN Human Rights Office OPT (Occupied Palestinian Territory) says it has verified the killing of 227 Palestinian journalists in Gaza since October 7, 2023. The UN office also says Israeli attacks had killed 18 journalists in May 2025 alone. International Federation of Journalists (IFJ) has described this as ‘journacide’.

Israel has long been accusing journalists of being terrorists without providing any credible proof.  “Israel is murdering the messengers,” said CPJ regional director Sara Qudah. “They’ve wiped out an entire news crew. That’s murder.”

Anas al-Sharif, who was among those killed on August 10, had been one of Al Jazeera’s best-known reporters in Gaza since October 2023, and was the “only voice” for the world to know what was happening in the Gaza Strip. He was one of several journalists whom Israel had previously alleged were members of Hamas, without providing any evidence.

There is growing evidence that journalists in Gaza have been targeted and killed by the Israeli army on the basis of unsubstantiated claims that they Hamas terrorists.

Directing attacks against protected persons such as journalists is a violation of international law and also constitutes a war crime. The apparent targeting of Palestinian journalists in Gaza, combined with Israel’s denial of access of foreign journalists to Gaza for over 18 months, except a few visits controlled by IDF, indicates a deliberate attempt by Israel to limit the flow of information to and from Gaza and prevent reporting on the impact of its attacks and denial of humanitarian assistance.

Cartoon by Suparno Chaudhuri

Remember Mr Netanyahu, you may unleash lethal force and keep killing journalists, but you won’t be able to destroy fearless journalism. Journalists will keep enduring deadly risks of reporting and truth will prevail.

Irish writer Oscar Wilde had said: “In America, the president reigns for four years, but journalism governs forever and ever.”

Meanwhile, Yuval Noah Harari, author of the best-selling book Sapiens, and the eminent Israeli historian and now a high-profile political activist in his home country, has opposed Netanyahu’s right-wing populist coalition. He also attacked the indifference of some American and European progressives to Hamas atrocities, and accused them of ‘extreme moral insensitivity’ and betraying left wing politics. He expressed dismay with “elements within the global left…until now our political partners” who had, on occasions, “justified Hamas’ actions”.

Harari has said he believes “the idea that Israel should just destroy Gaza is unacceptable….the only solution will come when not only is Hamas disarmed, but the Palestinian people have some kind of alternative future.”

Famous journalists who were brutally murdered:

Daniel Pearl (1963-2002), an American journalist who worked for The Wall Street Journal, was beheaded by jihadists in Pakistan in 2002.

James Foley (1973-2014), an American journalist and a freelance war correspondent, was abducted in Syria and decapitated by ISIS in 2014.

Steven Sotloff  (1983-2014), an American-Israeli journalist, was kidnapped in Aleppo, Syria and beheaded by ISIS in 2014.

 

 

 


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The Good Samaritan

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Navigating traffic in torrid summer and torrential rain in south Kolkata, he ekes out his living. He ferries passengers to their destination always with a smile. He endures his hardship and battles poverty without a whimper. He is expansive and humane. His conscience, compassion and magnanimity are hard to find in this age of greed and selfishness.

Meet Kanai Sarkar.

Come rain or shine, you may come across this 45-year-old auto driver on NSC Bose Road between Garia and Anwar Shah Road. His day begins at 6am as he drops school children to their destinations. On Kolkata’s pitiable roads, he has to cope with series of problems — from pot-holes to hostile traffic sergeants to rude and ill-mannered passengers. But, he neither uses foul language nor frowns at them.

His daily grind includes negotiating pot-holed roads which make things worse in the rainy season and traumatic traffic. While his fellow auto-drivers don’t bother about rulebooks, he never flouts them. If any passenger urges him to drive faster, he never resorts to rash driving. In the process, he often faces impolite and unruly backlashes. But, he bears them with equanimity. What sets him apart from other auto-drivers is his large-heartedness, benevolence and generosity. Ever alert about his elderly passengers, he always drives with extra caution while negotiating the pock-marked city roads. He even extends his helping hand, literally, to get them off the vehicles to the safety of footpath.

A school student the other day forgot to bring his wallet and discovered it only when he reached his destination. “Kaku, I forgot to bring my purse,” the boy pleaded helplessly. “No problem,” replied Kanai. “Baba, take this Rs 15. You’ll need it while returning home,” he added.

A Good Samaritan like him is extremely rare today. While we’re unscrupulously chasing money every moment, this auto-driver faces challenges without any complaint and remains happy, helping others even amid adversity.

Salute to you, Kanaida.

 

Kanai Sarkar: A good soul

 

 

 


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Trump’s second innings: Beginning of a devastating impact on planet and people

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Donald Trump’s return to White House marks a watershed in the history of humankind. The triumph of the loony and convicted felon in the November 2024 US presidential election has sent dire warnings for humanity.

With fossil fuel emissions continuing to heat the atmosphere, Trump, a staunch advocate of fossil fuel, has vowed to withdraw the US from the Paris Climate Agreement, the world’s most significant effort to tackle rising temperatures.

He also made it clear that the US will embark on a new age of oil and gas exploration.

In 2017, President Trump during his first term had said he had been elected “to represent the people of Pittsburgh and not Paris”. The US will now join Iran, Yemen and Libya as the only countries to currently stand outside the Paris Agreement, which was signed 10 years ago in the French capital.

Although the Paris Agreement is not a legally binding treaty, it is the document that drives co-operation among the nations to combat global warming.

On January 20, Trump had announced a “national energy emergency” to reverse many of the Biden era environmental regulations. He had termed the Paris Agreement a” ripoff” during his inaugural speech following his swearing-in and said: “We’ll drill, baby, drill”.

The planet has moved a major step closer to warming more than 1.5C for the first time in 2024, new data shows despite the promise of world leaders to avert this disaster a decade ago.

The European Copernicus planet service, one of the main global data providers, has said 2024 was the first calendar to pass the symbolic threshold as well as the world’s hottest on record.

Last week UN chief Antonio Guterres described the recent run of temperature records as “climate breakdown”. “We must exit this road to ruin…and we’ve no time to lose,” he had said in his New Year message.

Last year’s searing heat is predominantly due to humanity’s emissions of planet warming gases, such as carbon dioxide, which are still at record highs.

The risks from climate change, such as intense heat waves, rising sea-levels and loss of wildlife, would be much higher at 2C than at 1.5C, according a landmark UN report from 2018.

Yet, the world is moving closer and closer to breaching the 1.5C barrier. It’s hard to predict though when we will cross the long-term 1.5C threshold, ‘but we’re obviously very close now,” says Myles Allen, an author of the UN report.

The 1.5C has become a powerful symbol in the international climate negotiations ever since it was signed in Paris in 2015, with many of the most vulnerable countries considering it a matter of survival.

In 2024 the world saw blistering temperatures in West Africa, prolonged droughts in parts of South America, intense rainfall in central Europe, and some particularly strong tropical storms hitting North America and South Asia.

These events were just some of those made more intense by the climate change over the last year, according to World Weather Attribution Group. Even this month’s wildfires in Los Angeles were fueled by high winds and a lack of rain. Experts say conditions conducive to fires in California are becoming more likely in a warming world.

Strangely enough, Trump still denies the existence of the climate change and its disastrous consequence. His dogged determination to explore oil and natural gas will surely be death knell for the planet when the crisis is becoming worse every year.

I am reminded of what activist Jane Fonda had said: “There has never been a ticking time tomb hanging over our heads. There’s a looming catastrophe that will affect all of humanity. That’s never happened before in the history of humankind…”

Sadly, this madcap doesn’t realize that ‘drilling’ Alaska for oil is like digging his own grave.

Cartoon: Suparno Chaudhuri


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Pfizer, fraud and Covid

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The Pfizer Papers: Pfizer’s Crimes against Humanity, which was published last month on October 15, has stated in no uncertain terms that the US pharma behemoth’s Covid vaccine clinical trial was deeply flawed. This is a book, author Dr Naomi Wolf says, the US, the UK and Australian governments had all tried to suppress.

The story of the book and how it was completed is extraordinary. As many as 3250 highly credentialed doctors and scientists under the leadership of Amy Kelly worked for two years on the 450,000 internal Pfizer documents released under the court order by a successful lawsuit by Attorney Aaron Siri.

These volunteers have confirmed the greatest crimes against humanity of all time.

Covid-19 became a global public health emergency in 2020. Today, after four years, it really doesn’t matter whether the virus was released carelessly or deliberately into the environment from Wuhan (China) or Fort Detrick (US).

Public demand, support of the scientific-medical fraternity, WHO and national public health officials, together led national governments across the world to begin and fast-track the manufacture of anti-Covid vaccines.

Pfizer stepped in to take advantage of the crisis and mint money.

The story began when lawyer Aaron Siri successfully sued the FDA, to compel them to release “The Pfizer Documents”. These are Pfizer’s internal documents that detail the clinical trials Pfizer had conducted in relation to its Covid mRNA injection. These trials were undertaken to secure the ultimate prize for a pharmaceutical company, the Emergency Use Authorization” (EUA) from the FDA. The FDA had awarded EUA for ages 16+to Pfizer in December 2020. The ‘pandemic’ became the pretext for the “urgency” that led the FDA to bestow EUA on Pfizer’s (and Moderna’s) drug. The EUA essentially allowed Pfizer to race right to market with a not-fully-tested product.

Many people who took the vaccine as it was launched in 2020-2021-2022 and to the present, did not realize that normal testing for safety of a new vaccine–testing that typically takes 10 to 12 years–had simply been bypassed via the mechanism of a “state of emergency” and the FDA’s “Emergency Use Authorization”.

The FDA asked the judge in the Aaron Siri lawsuit to withhold the release of the Pfizer documents for 75 years. But, why would a government agency wish to conceal certain material until the present generation, those affected by what is in these documents, is dead and gone? There can be no good answer to this question!

Fortunately for history and for millions of people whose lives were saved by this decision, the judge had refused the FDA’s request and compelled the release of the documents.

Pfizer knew by April 2021that the vaccines had damaged the hearts of young people. The company knew — just 90 days after the public rollout of their vaccines — that its injection was linked to a myriad of adverse events. Far from being “chills”, “fever’, “fatigue”, as the Center for Disease Control and prevention (CDC) and other authorities had claimed, the actual side-effects were catastrophically serious. These side-effects included: death (which Pfizer does list as a “serious adverse event”). Indeed, there were over 1233 deaths in the first three months of the drug being publicly available.

Among the side-effects were liver injury, neurological adverse events, facial paralysis, kidney injury, autoimmune diseases, respiratory failure, damaged lung structure, and acute respiratory distress syndrome. These appear in the Pfizer documents as side-effects of the vaccine.

By the time, Pfizer’s vaccines were rolled out to the public, the company knew that they would be killing babies and significantly harming women and men’s reproduction. The materials in the documents make it clear that damaging human ability to reproduce and causing spontaneous abortions of babies is “not a bug, it is a failure.”

“Unearthing this criminal evidence is painful indeed,” says the author. “Seeing this material is like being among the Allied soldiers who first opened the gates of Auschwitz.”

Unfortunately, no one who committed this unpardonable crime is in jail, or even facing civil or criminal charges. There are now at least three lawsuits against Pfizer. The litigation drags on.

When will those responsible be brought to book and exemplary punishment meted out to them?

Only time will tell.

 


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What’s Indian railways’ priority after the CRS report: Vande Bharat or rail safety?

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Last week, the Commissioner of Railway Safety (CRS) had slammed Indian Railways for Kanchanjunga Express-goods train collision on June 17 in which 10 people had died and 30 others injured. The goods train rammed into Kanchenjunga Express from behind near Rangapani station , close to New Jalpaiguri in North Bengal.

The loco pilot of the goods train was given incorrect authority document, the report had said. The initial probe, however, had blamed the goods train crew for the accident.

“It was an accident-in-waiting,” said the CRS report, adding that there were errors in multiple levels of the administration and station staff.

According to CRS, a wrong paper authority to pass (T/A 912) was issued to the crew of the goods train by the authorities. Loco pilot of the goods train was not given any speed guidelines while crossing the signal which made matters worse, the report said.

The accident in Darjeeling district had been classified under the “Error in train working” section. Due to improper authority and that too without adequate information, such an incident was an “accident-in-waiting”, the CRS report had said.

“It is really a matter of concern that if the teachers themselves (traffic inspector and chief loco inspector), are not aware of the subject, what knowledge will they impart to students (loco pilot and SS/SM)?” the report had said.
Citing the failure of automatic signaling, the report said: “There have been 275 failures in the auto section of the Katihar Division since the commissioning in January 2023 till 20th June 2024…the large number of signaling failures in the automatic section is defeating the very purpose of mobility enhancement and causing safety concerns,” the report said.

Last week, the Railway Board, had announced that the rail ministry had standardized the operating procedure for train crew in case of such failures. “To increase the reliability of signaling equipment, an action plan is being prepared with the zone, under the chairmanship of RDSO (Research designs and standards organization)” the Board had said.

The CRS report also mentioned that the implementation of the Kavach anti-collision system needs to be shown on ground to avoid collisions,

As a rail enthusiast, I’d like to raise a few points to the rail ministry.

Well, the government may go ahead with bullet trains or high-speed trains. But, equal emphasis, if not more, must be given on improving infrastructure of suburban rail network on which millions of common people depend every day. Since I grew up in a suburb named Naihati, near Kolkata and lived close to the rail station, I am familiar with the rail infrastructure over the years. I used to travel everyday from Naihati to Sealdah rail station during late 70’s and early 80’s and had seen and personally experienced daily commuters’ ordeal and woes. I had seen how common folks travel in coaches packed like sardines!

Isn’t the top brass of the Sealdah section aware of the pain and pathos of the daily passengers? Doesn’t he know the deplorable state of affairs?

Even now, while the government has been working zealously to modernise railways and build high-speed trains befitting Asia’s third largest economy, daily passengers’ agony continues: local trains perennially run late, lack of adequate trains, most of the coaches are old and decrepit. Rundown and shabby interior will stare at you as you step into the compartment. Windows are mostly non-functional. About the cleanliness, hygiene and floor of the compartment, the less said the better.

However, recently the authorities have introduced some new coaches. I wonder how long these new coaches will shine in the absence of public discipline and poor maintenance.

What needs to be done urgently is to improve basic infrastructure (including tracks upgrade with high strength rails) and ensure commuters’ safety. The Kanchanjunga Express accident has made it amply clear that the authorities had been lackadaisical and adequate action was not taken following the Balasore train accident.

Will the rail authorities wake up and take urgent action following the CRS report keeping in mind the passengers’ safety which should be top priority?

Vande Bharat is good, but running trains on time, tracks upgrade, keeping coaches clean and making rail journey safer is better!

Is the rail minister listening?


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